Pointers on chain adjustment and maintenance.
If you are needing to adjust the chain every time you ride, it’s time to get back to basics, you are possibly over tightening the chain to start.
Chain cleaning and lubrication: ( this applies to regular roller chains not those expensive, wide, o-ring chains ) Dirty chains run tighter than a clean and properly lubricated chain ! Find yourself an old plastic oil container, the 4 liter (1 gallon) containers are the perfect size, put about 1 cup of liquid WD-40 or similar solvent into the jug along with your chain,. Put the lid on and shake it up good. Now recover your chain from the container, ( you might need to cut the top off the plastic jug, as they go in easier than they com out ) Wipe off the chain with a clean rag and hang it up to drain off the excess solvent. ( dispose of the used, dirty solvent in an appropriate manor.) Re-install the chain on your bike and lubricate it with a good quality chain lube. ( one that goes on like blue foam and clings like grease is best )
Never over tighten a chain or you will do significant damage to your chain, wheel bearings and swing arm bushings. Frequently inspect the wheel bearings for any play and replace them if they are not perfect. They are not difficult to replace, they are very inexpensive and available from any bearing supply. Swing arm bushings or bearings should also be cleaned and greased regularly and replaced if they are not perfect. They are harder to source outside of the OEM dealership.
How tight is too tight? Because the vast majority of motorcycles have a swing arm pivot point which is not concentric with the drive sprocket, the chain tension changes, as the swing arm travels through it’s range of motion. The critical position is the point at which the drive sprocket, swing arm pivot and axle are all aligned in a single plane. At that point the chain should still remain slightly relaxed, not taut, or your chain will stretch like crazy from the tremendous leverage and strain imposed on it.
If you are unsure of how to adjust the chain after consulting the owners manual, that is maybe because it was badly written ! The virago owner manual I downloaded says: “Spin the wheel several times and find the tightest position of the chain”, which BTW is totally absurd as it is the swing arm travel that tightens the chain, NOT the rotation of the wheel. …duh !
Have someone sit on the bike and inspect the chain tension, when the chain is at it’s tightest position. If your assistant is not heavy enough to compress the springs to achieve that aspect, you can remove one shock and this will make the suspension settle very easily. Just make certain you are inspecting the chain tension at it’s tightest point of the swing-arm travel !!!
If your rear wheel is drum brake equipped you need to loosen the brake “tension bar”
( item 1 on page 8-38 of the manual ) when adjusting the chain.
Make sure your chain adjusters are in their proper position and tighten the axle nut significantly tighter than you might think appropriate. At one time I observed the Spanish Trials Team Mechanics chain adjusting for the top world rider at that time, They used 2 massive spanner wrenches to tighten the axle and I was shocked by how much torque they put on the rear axle nut. ( The Virago manual calls for 76 ft-lb ) for comparison purpose the Virago manual calls for only 43 ft-lb on the front axle, so in simple terms the rear wheel needs to be almost twice as tight as the front axle !
And make sure you tighten that rear brake “tension bar” and re-adjust your brake before riding !!! Brakes are very important sometimes.
Sorry this is such a long read! … see why my street bikes are shaft drive